Double cloth weave with stripes with tubes filled with wool fibres as wadding.

Culture & Context

I have been working as a part time barista for the past 18 months while also pursuing
my textiles career. In this time, I have fallen in love with the process of making coffee
however there is a huge amount of waste that comes with it. Through this project I
wanted to see how many ways I could utilise waste from the coffee industry and turn it
into a new/ experimental material or process.

This sample focused on playing with the two cloths and making differer facing tubes
depending on which warp was set to front facing. I also explored filling the tubes with a
soft material rather than with the coffee beans. The filling of this sample was two
different coloured wool fibres, a cream and a green.

Process & Production

The process of this material was firstly setting up the loom. When that was complete I
started weaving. This sample focused on using the double cloth weave making
horizontal tubes to be stuffed with wool fibres as wadding. Firstly a couple of inches of
plain weave across both cloths was done. The ensuring that the coffee dyed warp is
front facing the first stripe was woven. The top cloth weft was a 2ply Galway wool
dyed with used coffee grounds and the bottom cloth weft was the green merino wool
yarn from Bart and Francis. The bottom cloth weft was kept the same for all the tubes.
The second stripe had the area, warp front facing and used Both a brown merino wool
and the green merino wool yarns for the weft. The coffee stripe was then repeated and
finished with a plain weave across both cloths using the 1ply Galway wool as the weft.
Once the tubes were secured wool wadding was pulled through and put into the tubes
hanging out each side.

Recipe Details

Loom Set Up :
Double Cloth set up using 16 shafts on a 24 shaft shaft ARM Touch 60 Loom.
Warp 1 & 2 : Galway Wool 1ply – length 4 yards, one dyed with waste coffee grounds
the other was left plain.
Weight : 232g for both.
24epi, 336 ends in total
Width : 14”
Straight draft in blocks AABAABAABAABAA

Material Sample :
The sample was first woven with plain weave across both cloths.
Then 2.5” of a double cloth weave was done ensuring that the coffee dyed warp was
front facing and the cream warp was the bottom cloth. The weft yarn used for this strip
was the 2ply Galway wool naturally dyed with coffee. The weft yarn for the bottom
cloth was a green merino wool from Bart and Francis.
The next stripe ensured that the cream warp was front facing and the first 1” woven
used a brown merino wool yarn from Bart and Francis for the weft and the second 1”
stripe used the same green as the bottom cloth (these were on two different shuttle
top ensure the double cloth tube stayed opened and wasn’t woven closed).
Then 2.5” of a double cloth weave was done ensuring that the coffee dyed warp was
front facing and the cream warp was the bottom cloth. The weft yarn used for this strip
was the 2ply Galway wool naturally dyed with coffee. The weft yarn for the bottom
cloth was a green merino wool from Bart and Francis.
The double cloth was then secured with a couple of inches of plain weave using the
1ply Galway wool to secure it all.
Once all was secured wool fibres were pulled through the horizontal tubes filling them
making a soft light and bouncy thick material.