Properties & Qualities
Application
Accessories Art Clothing Furnishing
Qualities
2D Colourful Flexible Smooth Textured / tactile
Colour
Blue White
Sample Information
Date of Creation
November 12th, 2022
Dimensions
370 mm x 385 mm x 2 mm
Weight
68 g
Culture & Context
Double-weave, in its most general sense, is a process of weaving two layers of cloth simultaneously. The interchange of these layers allows the weaver to create complex structures and patterns. Double-woven fabric dating back to the first millennium BCE has been found in Peru and in China. From these centres, knowledge of the structure spread around the world and has given rise to many different traditions of its use. In the UK it is perhaps best known in the form of Welsh ‘tapestry’ blankets, the double-layer structure being an excellent insulator.The double weave sample shown here presents four of the basic plain weave interlacements which can be made from two solid colour layers. |
Process & Production
For a handweaver the double-weaving process can be achieved through loom-control (that is, by assigning warp ends to shafts and manipulating the shafts) or by hand, or using a combination of the two approaches. This sample is woven on a 32-shaft computer dobby loom. |
Recipe Details
The warp is made from two colours, royal blue and white, of 16/2 unmercerised cotton. A fairly open sett of 40 epi is used, allowing for a thicker 8/2 cotton weft in the same two colours. The web is beaten to square.The threading is a point draw for double weave over 32 shafts.For each row of triangles two different interlacements have been used. They can be substituted into the liftplan using a computer program or by hand.Following the example in the photograph, make a grid of N x N where N is the number of shafts that corresponds to your threading. Then divide it with a diagonal which proceeds in steps of 2 x 2 squares. Copy one structure into the lower triangle and another structure into the upper triangle. Alternatively, make an N x N grid of each structure, cut away the part you do not need from each one and fit the remaining sections together.After weaving the fabric is washed and pressed to finish. |
Credits
Craft Maker
Cally Booker
Library Contributor
Cally Booker
Photographer
Stuart Booker