Striped Cream Bumps

Ethical Making

Experiment

Sustainable

Using the wool warp dyed with waste coffee and an un-dyed wool warp, a double cloth weave set was used to create a series of woven samples inspired by the coffee industry. This particular sample explores initial experimenting of surface manipulation using both cloths.

Material

Experimental materials
Fiber

Craft

Textiles

General Technique

Constructing

Specific Technique

The technique used for this sample explored playing with the two cloths to create
bumps and surface manipulation. The first dark brown stripe focused on the warp
dyed with coffee front facing and then swapped to the cream warp facing the front.
This was alternated and then just the cream warp was woven alone leaving the coffee
warp unwoven. To create the bumps I released the tension of just the cream wool
warp and pulled it towards me. I secured the bump by then changing back to the
coffee warp front facing using a plain weave. The weft yarn used for the coffee facing
front was the naturally dyed brown merino wool yarn from Bart and Francis. The weft
used for the cream stripes was the same as the cream warp, the 1ply Galway wool
yarn.

Properties & Qualities

Application

Sample Making Other

Colour

Brown White

Sample Information

Date of creation

June 2023

Dimensions

Height 9” x Width : 12”

Weight

43g

Culture & Context

I have been working as a part time barista for the past 18 months while also pursuing
my textiles career. In this time, I have fallen in love with the process of making coffee
however there is a huge amount of waste that comes with it. Through this project I
wanted to see how many ways I could utilise waste from the coffee industry and turn it
into a new/ experimental material or process.

This sample was inspired by the colours seen throughout many coffee drinks but
focused on the initial testing and exploration of surface manipulation while weaving on
the loom using both warps of the double cloth weave.

Process & Production

The process of this material was firstly setting up the loom. When that was complete I
started weaving. The first stripe was woven having the coffee dyed warp front facing
using a plain weave and the brown merino wool as the weft. This was the alternated
with the cream wool warp front facing using the 1ply Galway wool as the weft.

To get the surface bumps, I then only wove the cream warp front facing leaving the
coffee warp unwoven. The Galway wool was used for the weft yarn here too. After the
2” stripe was woven I release the tension of the cream warp and pulled it towards me.
I then secured this by making the coffee warp front facing and wove 2” of that using
the brown merino wool as the weft. I continued this until my sample was the desired
length.

Recipe Details

Loom Set Up :
Double Cloth set up using 16 shafts on a 24 shaft shaft ARM Touch 60 Loom.
Warp 1 & 2 : Galway Wool 1ply – length 4 yards, one dyed with waste coffee grounds
the other was left plain.
Weight : 232g for both.
24epi, 336 ends in total
Width : 14”
Straight draft in blocks AABAABAABAABAA

Material Sample :
2” stripe plain weave using a naturally dyed brown merino wool yarn from Bart and
Francis, ensuring the coffee warp was front facing.
2” stripe plain weave using the plain cream 1ply Galway wool, ensuring the cream
warp was front facing.
2” stripe plain weave using a naturally dyed brown merino wool yarn from Bart and
Francis, ensuring the coffee warp was front facing.
2” stripe plain weave using the plain cream 1ply Galway wool, ensuring the cream
warp was front facing and none of the coffee warp was set to weave.
Once the cream stripe was woven the cream warp tension was release and pulled
towards me and secured with a 2” stripe plain weave using a naturally dyed brown
merino wool yarn from Bart and Francis, ensuring the coffee warp was front facing.
This was repeated until the sample was the desired length.

Credits

Craft Maker

Amy Kerr (AK Textiles)

Library Contributor

National College of Art & Design Ireland

Photographer

Amy Kerr

Practitioner