Properties & Qualities
Application
Accessories Clothing Furnishing
Qualities
2D Colourful Flexible Shiny Textured / tactile
Colour
Green Pink
Sample Information
Date of Creation
October 29th, 2022
Dimensions
210 mm x 150 mm x 3 mm
Weight
10 g
Culture & Context
Double-weave, in its most general sense, is a process of weaving two layers of cloth simultaneously. The interchange of these layers allows the weaver to create complex structures and patterns. Double-woven fabric dating back to the first millennium BCE has been found in Peru and in China. From these centres, knowledge of the structure spread around the world and has given rise to many different traditions of its use. In the UK it is perhaps best known in the form of Welsh ‘tapestry’ blankets, the double-layer structure being an excellent insulator.The double huck structure used in this sample is also suitable for blankets. Woven with a finer yarn, as shown here, it makes a fabric with excellent drape, suitable for use in garments and accessories. |
Process & Production
For a handweaver the double-weaving process can be achieved through loom-control (that is, by assigning warp ends to shafts and manipulating the shafts) or by hand, or using a combination of the two approaches. This sample is woven on an 8-shaft loom, with each layer requiring four shafts. |
Recipe Details
The warp is made from two colours, teal and magenta, of 18/2 wool/silk threaded as shown in the accompanying draft and sleyed 3|4|3 in a 10 dpi reed for an overall sett of 33 epi. The same two colours are used in the weft and the web is beaten to square.The draft is given in a liftplan format, but can also be woven on a floor loom using eight treadles (one for each distinct shaft combination). There is no real benefit to using a skeleton tie-up for this structure as the lifts are too diverse.After weaving the fabric is washed, lightly fulled, and pressed to finish.
Credits
Craft Maker
Cally Booker
Library Contributor
Cally Booker
Photographer
Stuart Booker